Een lust voor het oog

Een lust voor het oog

Visualia 1171 Soo Joo Park
Het Koreaanse topmodel Soo Joo Park in een lasercut metaal creatie van Iris van Herpen tijdens de Fashion Week in Parijs afgelopen maand. Copyright: First Post/Reuters

(BOS)In vijf grote aquaria zitten Deense muzikanten met een instrument. Chinese gongs, een glasharmonica, een viool. Via onderwater-microfoons horen we ijle, gesmoorde klanken. Mysterieus en melancholiek. Met enige regelmaat komen de muzikanten lucht happen, zoals goudvissen dat doen. Een bijzondere ervaring, maar daar kwam het publiek niet voor. Tussen de aquaria werd vorige maand tijdens de Fashion Week in Parijs de met grote spanning verwachte Haute Couture Collection Show 2017/2018 van de Nederlandse Iris van Herpen getoond. Negentien jurken die eigenlijk geen jurken zijn, maar ‘uitvindingen’ in vorm en materiaal.

Iris van Herpen (Wamel, 1984) had in 2012 een opzienbarende tentoonstelling in het Groninger Museum met kledingontwerpen in de vorm van uitwendige skeletten. Daarmee liet ze zien hoe ze bezig is om andere vormen en nieuwe materialen te testen. Vorig jaar kreeg ze het Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium uitgereikt, de belangrijkste prijs in modevormgeving. Tijdens het Metropolitan Museum of Art’s ‘Manus x Machina’ 2016 liet ze wetenschap, kunst en ‘levende kleding’ samengaan. In dat opzicht is ze meer een beeldend kunstenaar dan een couturier.

De wereld van de haute couture kijkt vol verbazing naar een topkunstenaar die zich volledig heeft losgeschud van tradities en modes. Het is ongelooflijk als je haar bezig ziet met een grote mate van ambachtelijkheid en het gebruik van bijvoorbeeld PETG (polyethyleentereftalaat) of het aanbrengen van iridiscerende folie op doorzichtige tule of organza. Ze is bijvoorbeeld ook de eerste couturier die met een 3D printer werkt. Op YouTube zijn fascinerende filmpjes te zien van zulke maakprocessen.

Voor het publiek gaat het natuurlijk om het resultaat. Dat is verbluffend. De ontwerpen die in Parijs werden geshowd doen nog het meeste denken aan vissenhuiden, aan sluierstaarten die tijdens het voortbewegen in denkbeeldig water golven. Glanzende stoffen van ijl materiaal dat soms als een wolk om de modellen zweeft. Dat ogenschijnlijk gewichtloze (sommige jurken wegen in werkelijkheid 15 kilo) en dansante bepaalt voor een belangrijk deel de magie van deze ontwerpen. Bijzonder vrouwelijk, sensueel en betoverend zijn ze, zoals ze het lichaam van de modellen doet uitvloeien in subtiele, beweeglijke vormen in de ruimte. Een lust voor het oog.

Dat is nog lang niet het eindpunt. Volgens Vogue Nederland is Iris van Herpen intussen alweer bezig met het uitvinden van een onzichtbaarheidsmantel door middel van het buigen van lichtgolven.

De spectaculaire show van Iris van Herpen is op YouTube te zien: Iris Van Herpen | Haute Couture | Fall/Winter 2017/18) Over de voorbereidingen en de techniek: op haar website www.irisvanherpen.com het onderdeel: Iris van Herpen | Aeriform | Behind the scenes

(Deze tekst werd eerder gepubliceerd als Visualia 1171 in het Dagblad van het Noorden van 18 augustus 2017)

 

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